Chapter 52 covers woven fabrics of cotton and cotton mixed with other textile fibers, including raw cotton, cotton waste, combed cotton, cotton yarn, and cotton woven fabrics. This chapter does not include cotton knitted or crocheted fabrics (Chapter 60) or cotton made-up articles (Chapter 62). The core lies in the processing and weaving of cotton fibers, making it a foundational chapter for textile classification. Heading 5209 specifically refers to cotton woven fabrics containing ≥85% cotton by weight and weighing more than 200g per square meter. Under this heading, fabrics are further subdivided by weave structure (plain weave, twill, etc.) and weight. It does not include information on finishing processes such as bleaching or dyeing, which only affect subsequent subheadings. The first 2 digits, 52, represent Chapter 52 (Cotton and cotton woven fabrics). Digits 3-4, 09, represent heading 5209, i.e., cotton woven fabrics containing ≥85% cotton and weighing >200g/m². Digits 5-6, 12, represent the subheading, specifically referring to 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave fabrics, including broken twill. 3-thread twill refers to warp-faced or weft-faced twill, while 4-thread twill includes compound twill, with different weave repeat counts. This product contains ≥85% cotton, weighs >200g/m², and has a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, fully conforming to the description of 5209.12. If it were plain weave, it would be classified under 5209.11; if it were other twill (such as 2-thread twill), it would be classified under 5209.19; if the cotton content were <85%, it would be classified under 5211 or 5212.
Chapter
Chapter 52 covers woven fabrics of cotton and cotton mixed with other textile fibers, including raw cotton, cotton waste, combed cotton, cotton yarn, and cotton woven fabrics. This chapter does not include cotton knitted or crocheted fabrics (Chapter 60) or cotton made-up articles (Chapter 62). The core lies in the processing and weaving of cotton fibers, making it a foundational chapter for textile classification.
Heading
Heading 5209 specifically refers to cotton woven fabrics containing ≥85% cotton by weight and weighing more than 200g per square meter. Under this heading, fabrics are further subdivided by weave structure (plain weave, twill, etc.) and weight. It does not include information on finishing processes such as bleaching or dyeing, which only affect subsequent subheadings.
Digit Breakdown
The first 2 digits, 52, represent Chapter 52 (Cotton and cotton woven fabrics). Digits 3-4, 09, represent heading 5209, i.e., cotton woven fabrics containing ≥85% cotton and weighing >200g/m². Digits 5-6, 12, represent the subheading, specifically referring to 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave fabrics, including broken twill. 3-thread twill refers to warp-faced or weft-faced twill, while 4-thread twill includes compound twill, with different weave repeat counts.
Classification Basis
This product contains ≥85% cotton, weighs >200g/m², and has a 3-thread or 4-thread twill weave, fully conforming to the description of 5209.12. If it were plain weave, it would be classified under 5209.11; if it were other twill (such as 2-thread twill), it would be classified under 5209.19; if the cotton content were <85%, it would be classified under 5211 or 5212.
📝 Declaration Elements
Product Name: The standard name of the declared commodity, which should include the weaving method, weave characteristics, and primary use, such as 'cotton 3-thread twill woven fabric'. Weaving Method: Indicate whether it is woven or knitted. This code is limited to woven fabrics, so 'woven' must be specified. Weave Type: Specify the twill type, such as '3-thread twill' or '4-thread twill', and if necessary, indicate whether it is broken twill. Composition Content: List the percentage of each fiber, and it must be ensured that cotton ≥85%, such as '100% cotton' or '88% cotton, 12% polyester'. Weight Per Square Meter: Declare the gram weight (g/m²), which must be greater than 200g, such as '220g/m²'. Width: The width of the fabric, expressed in centimeters or inches. It affects classification but is not critical, and must be declared truthfully. Brand/Model: If there is a brand or model, it must be declared; if there is no brand, fill in 'None'. Processing and Finishing: Indicate whether it is bleached, dyed, printed, etc. This code is for unbleached or bleached fabrics, which must be specified. Product Name: Cotton 3-thread twill woven fabric; Weaving Method: Woven; Weave Type: 3-thread twill; Composition Content: 100% cotton; Weight Per Square Meter: 230g/m²; Width: 150cm; Brand: None; Processing and Finishing: Unbleached. Misreporting 3-thread twill as 2-thread twill, resulting in classification under 5209.19 instead of 5209.12. Using ounces/yard as the gram weight unit without converting to g/m², leading to incorrect weight determination. Declaring under 5209 when cotton content is below 85%, when it should actually be classified under 5211 or 5212.
Product Name
The standard name of the declared commodity, which should include the weaving method, weave characteristics, and primary use, such as 'cotton 3-thread twill woven fabric'.
⚠️ Writing only 'cotton fabric' or 'twill fabric' without indicating 3-thread/4-thread characteristics.
Weaving Method
Indicate whether it is woven or knitted. This code is limited to woven fabrics, so 'woven' must be specified.
⚠️ Incorrectly filling in 'knitted' or confusing 'woven' with 'loomed'.
Weave Type
Specify the twill type, such as '3-thread twill' or '4-thread twill', and if necessary, indicate whether it is broken twill.
⚠️ Writing only 'twill' without distinguishing the number of threads, leading to classification errors.
Composition Content
List the percentage of each fiber, and it must be ensured that cotton ≥85%, such as '100% cotton' or '88% cotton, 12% polyester'.
⚠️ Reversing the composition or failing to indicate cotton content, making it impossible to confirm whether it is ≥85%.
Weight Per Square Meter
Declare the gram weight (g/m²), which must be greater than 200g, such as '220g/m²'.
⚠️ Filling in 'gram weight' without specifying the unit, or mistakenly filling in ounces/yard.
Width
The width of the fabric, expressed in centimeters or inches. It affects classification but is not critical, and must be declared truthfully.
⚠️ Confusing width with gram weight, or failing to specify the unit.
Brand/Model
If there is a brand or model, it must be declared; if there is no brand, fill in 'None'.
⚠️ Leaving it blank or filling in 'no brand' when there is actually a brand.
Processing and Finishing
Indicate whether it is bleached, dyed, printed, etc. This code is for unbleached or bleached fabrics, which must be specified.
⚠️ Misreporting dyed fabric as unbleached, affecting subheading subdivision.
Misreporting 3-thread twill as 2-thread twill, resulting in classification under 5209.19 instead of 5209.12.
Using ounces/yard as the gram weight unit without converting to g/m², leading to incorrect weight determination.
Declaring under 5209 when cotton content is below 85%, when it should actually be classified under 5211 or 5212.
🎯 Classification Logic
The core basis for classification is: 1) cotton content ≥85%; 2) weight per square meter >200g; 3) fabric weave is 3-thread or 4-thread twill. All three are indispensable. If the cotton content is insufficient, consider 5211 (cotton blended with man-made fibers, cotton <85%, weight >200g); if the weight is ≤200g, classify under 5208 or 5210; if the weave is not 3/4-thread twill, classify under 5209.11 (plain weave) or 5209.19 (other twill). 520911 Cotton plain weave fabric, containing ≥85% cotton, weight >200g/m²: The weave is plain weave, whereas 520912 is 3-thread or 4-thread twill. The difference in weave is the core distinction. 520919 Other cotton twill woven fabrics, containing ≥85% cotton, weight >200g/m²: Includes 2-thread twill, steep twill, etc., but does not include 3-thread or 4-thread twill. The number of threads is key. 521112 Cotton blended with man-made fibers 3-thread or 4-thread twill woven fabric, containing <85% cotton, weight >200g/m²: The cotton content is below 85%, whereas 520912 requires ≥85%. Composition is the dividing line. 520812 Cotton 3-thread or 4-thread twill woven fabric, containing ≥85% cotton, weight ≤200g/m²: The weight is ≤200g, whereas 520912 requires >200g. Gram weight is the core indicator. Is the cotton content ≥85%? Is the weight per square meter >200g? Is the weave 3-thread or 4-thread twill? Is it woven rather than knitted? Is the processing and finishing unbleached or bleached?
Basis
The core basis for classification is: 1) cotton content ≥85%; 2) weight per square meter >200g; 3) fabric weave is 3-thread or 4-thread twill. All three are indispensable. If the cotton content is insufficient, consider 5211 (cotton blended with man-made fibers, cotton <85%, weight >200g); if the weight is ≤200g, classify under 5208 or 5210; if the weave is not 3/4-thread twill, classify under 5209.11 (plain weave) or 5209.19 (other twill).
The weight is ≤200g, whereas 520912 requires >200g. Gram weight is the core indicator.
Self-Check：
✓ Is the cotton content ≥85%?
✓ Is the weight per square meter >200g?
✓ Is the weave 3-thread or 4-thread twill?
✓ Is it woven rather than knitted?
✓ Is the processing and finishing unbleached or bleached?
❓ FAQ
How do I check the import tariff rate for 520912? You can check through the official website of the General Administration of Customs of China or the 'Single Window', or use HS code query tools. Tariff rates vary by country, trade agreement, and annual adjustments. It is recommended to refer to the latest 'Import and Export Tariff of the People's Republic of China'. What is the difference between 3-thread twill and 4-thread twill? 3-thread twill refers to twill with 3 warp and weft yarns in the weave repeat, while 4-thread twill has 4. 4-thread twill is more complex and may include compound twill, but both are classified under 520912 and must be clearly specified at declaration. If the cotton content is 84%, which code should it be classified under? It should be classified under 5211 or 5212, depending on the weight and blended fibers. For example, 3-thread twill with cotton <85% and weight >200g is classified under 5211.12, not 520912. If the gram weight is exactly 200g/m², can it be classified under 520912? No, 520912 requires the weight per square meter to be strictly greater than 200g. If it equals 200g, it should be classified under the corresponding subheading of 5208 (≤200g), such as 5208.12. How should the weave type be accurately described at declaration? You can refer to the fabric weave diagram and specify '3-thread twill' or '4-thread twill'. If it is broken twill, it must be specially noted. Avoid vague expressions such as 'twill fabric'. What is the main difference between 520912 and 520919? 520919 covers other twill weaves, such as 2-thread twill, steep twill, gentle twill, etc., but does not include 3-thread or 4-thread twill. The number of threads is the key distinction. How do I declare this commodity for cross-border e-commerce retail export? It must be filled in according to general trade declaration elements, and note that retail export may be eligible for simplified declaration, but the HS code must be accurate. It is recommended to consult a customs broker or use the customs pre-classification service. If the fabric is dyed, does it affect classification? It does not affect heading 5209, but it affects the subheading. 520912 generally refers to unbleached or bleached 3/4-thread twill. Dyed fabric may be classified under 5209.32 or 5209.42, etc., and must be adjusted according to the processing status.
Q: How do I check the import tariff rate for 520912?
A: You can check through the official website of the General Administration of Customs of China or the 'Single Window', or use HS code query tools. Tariff rates vary by country, trade agreement, and annual adjustments. It is recommended to refer to the latest 'Import and Export Tariff of the People's Republic of China'.
Q: What is the difference between 3-thread twill and 4-thread twill?
A: 3-thread twill refers to twill with 3 warp and weft yarns in the weave repeat, while 4-thread twill has 4. 4-thread twill is more complex and may include compound twill, but both are classified under 520912 and must be clearly specified at declaration.
Q: If the cotton content is 84%, which code should it be classified under?
A: It should be classified under 5211 or 5212, depending on the weight and blended fibers. For example, 3-thread twill with cotton <85% and weight >200g is classified under 5211.12, not 520912.
Q: If the gram weight is exactly 200g/m², can it be classified under 520912?
A: No, 520912 requires the weight per square meter to be strictly greater than 200g. If it equals 200g, it should be classified under the corresponding subheading of 5208 (≤200g), such as 5208.12.
Q: How should the weave type be accurately described at declaration?
A: You can refer to the fabric weave diagram and specify '3-thread twill' or '4-thread twill'. If it is broken twill, it must be specially noted. Avoid vague expressions such as 'twill fabric'.
Q: What is the main difference between 520912 and 520919?
A: 520919 covers other twill weaves, such as 2-thread twill, steep twill, gentle twill, etc., but does not include 3-thread or 4-thread twill. The number of threads is the key distinction.
Q: How do I declare this commodity for cross-border e-commerce retail export?
A: It must be filled in according to general trade declaration elements, and note that retail export may be eligible for simplified declaration, but the HS code must be accurate. It is recommended to consult a customs broker or use the customs pre-classification service.
Q: If the fabric is dyed, does it affect classification?
A: It does not affect heading 5209, but it affects the subheading. 520912 generally refers to unbleached or bleached 3/4-thread twill. Dyed fabric may be classified under 5209.32 or 5209.42, etc., and must be adjusted according to the processing status.
⚠️ Disclaimer: HS code classification, declaration elements, tariff rates and regulatory conditions on this page are for reference only and do not constitute legal advice on customs classification. Tariff rates and regulations are subject to change; the latest announcements from the General Administration of Customs and on-site determinations shall prevail. Please consult professional customs brokers or customs authorities before import/export.